Investing Talk #26: Kering Business
What is Kering
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Kering S.A. is a French multinational holding company in luxury goods. FourWeekMBA+3Wikipedia+3Kering+3
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Headquartered in Paris. Founded originally as a retail group (PPR), it has transformed into a luxury-focused conglomerate. Wikipedia+2FourWeekMBA+2
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Key people: François-Henri Pinault is Chairman & CEO (though leadership changes occur). Wikipedia+1
Brands & Product Portfolio
Kering owns a portfolio of luxury “houses” (brands) across fashion, leather goods, jewelry, eyewear, and beauty. Major brands include:
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Gucci Kering+2MarketScreener+2
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Saint Laurent (YSL) Wikipedia+2Kering+2
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Bottega Veneta Kering+2Kering+2
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Balenciaga Kering+1
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Alexander McQueen Kering+2Kering+2
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Brioni Kering+1
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Jewelry Houses: Boucheron, Pomellato, DoDo, Qeelin Kering+1
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Kering Eyewear — includes in-house production of eyewear for its own brands and others. Kering+2Kering+2
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Kering Beauté — a newer division focusing on beauty & fragrance. Kering+1
Financials & Key Figures (2024)
| Metric | Value |
|---|---|
| Revenue | €17,194 million (~€17.2B) in 2024. Kering |
| Change in revenue | Down ~12% (both “as reported” and “comparable basis”) vs prior year. Kering |
| Recurring operating income | €2,554 million. Kering |
| Net income (Group attributable) | €1,133 million. Kering |
| Employees | ~47,000. Kering+1 |
Business Model & Revenue Segments
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Multi-brand luxury model: Each “House” (brand) generally operates with creative independence, but Kering provides supporting functions (marketing, distribution, manufacturing, supply chain, retail operations) to leverage economies of scale. FourWeekMBA+2Kering+2
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Distribution channels: Directly-operated stores (including e-commerce) and wholesale. In 2024, Kering saw declines in both: directly-operated retail down ~13%, wholesale down more (≈22% in houses). Kering
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Complementary lines: Eyewear and beauty divisions are part of diversification; these tend to grow even when base apparel/leather goods face headwinds. Kering+2Kering+2
Strategy & Trends
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Focus on desirability, quality, and exclusivity: Reducing overexposure, tightening distribution, improving creative leadership. The aim is to protect brand equity. Kering
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Sustainability / Circularity: Kering invests in sustainability R&D, circular fashion models, resale & rental platforms, repair services, reducing waste, etc. Kering+1
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Investing in the supply chain: For example, in eyewear they’re acquiring lens producers and related assets to strengthen control. Reuters+1
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Beauté / fragrance as growth drivers: Growing newer business lines beyond core fashion/leather goods. Kering+1
Challenges & Recent Issues
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2024 saw revenue decline, putting pressure on margins. Recurring operating margin dropped significantly. Kering
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Gucci, Kering’s largest contributor, has faced declining traffic / store sales in certain regions. Kering
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Macroeconomic headwinds: consumer spending slows, especially for luxury; geo-political risk; inflation; impacts on supply chain.
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Managing brand identity and creative consistency across multiple Houses.
Outlook
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Kering appears to be aiming for stabilization in 2025, focusing on operational discipline, cost control, sharpening brand strategies. Kering
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Growth in eyewear and beauty is expected to continue to be a strategic priority.
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Adjusting distribution strategy (making it more exclusive, pruning wholesale), improving retail experiences.
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Continued investment in sustainability and circular business models.